Travel Safety: Packing a Pet First Aid Kit

Summer is here! Time to head to fun destinations along with your best canine buddy.  After all, your dog is family, so why get left out of the fun times together? Like family, packing for any kind of trip should consider their needs and safety and good preparation in the event of an illness or injury. 

Recently I facilitated a discussion among a large group of travelers about specific safety issues related to travel with pets and how to be prepared for when things go wrong.  Although that discussion covered several categories of concerns, the most energetic exchange was on the topic of First Aid and dealing with emergencies. Many of those in attendance were very mindful about their pet's comfort and enjoyment while traveling but had given little thought to how to handle an emergency or even a minor injury or illness.  

If you travel with an animal companion, a Pet First Aid Kit can be one of the most important things you pack, providing peace of mind as well as the resources needed if something goes wrong. Of course, having one for humans is a great idea, too, and many items can meet the needs of animals and humans.  However you prepare for travel, keep your pet in mind when packing to ensure you have on hand whatever you need to manage an illness or injury that might arise while you are away from home. 

First aid kits designed for pets are available for purchase. In my experience, the quality of the contents in many prepared kits is poor and items may be old or even expired. A better option is to create your own and fill it with the essentials that you know are fresh and good quality. It might cost slightly more to start, but you will have control over the contents as well as a supply of materials to replenish whatever is used. This also gives you the option to customize the kit to meet the specific needs presented by your pet and your travel plans. Since many items in a First Aid kit can be used for humans and pets, creating your own kit can save space by including all the essential items with pet-specific contents in a separate pocket or side of the same container. There are not many things that are for the pet alone and keeping track of two kits may be cumbersome as well as taking up more space. Empty packs in orange or red emblazoned with familiar First Aid lettering and logos are easy to find and will be easy to locate in your luggage or vehicle (or even at home in the hall closet). You may have an old sewing or tool case you can repurpose. There are lots of options to fit what you want to carry and the space you have available. Customize the container to suit your travel plans and lifestyle. Kayaking or boating with your dog? Consider a brightly colored dry bag that you can take along on the water. Whatever you choose as a pack, be sure to label it well and keep it in a designated place so you can access it quickly when needed. 

When preparing a kit, think beyond what you are capable of using. You might feel very confident at splinter removal but shudder at the thought of dealing with anything bigger. In an emergency, you may have a tele-vet visit and be given instructions for managing a situation. A proper kit will ensure you have the equipment you need close at hand so you can follow the veterinarian's instructions to care for your companion. 

Here are the basics to put in your Pet First Aid Kit:

Gloves (nitrile or vinyl, not powdered)

Sterile saline solution- available in small bottles

Gauze pads - sterile 2x2 and 4x4 size

Rolled gauze 

Adhesive tape

Adhesive wrap (sometimes called Vet Wrap or self-adherent wrap)

Cotton tipped swabs

Tick removal device such as tick spoon or tick tweezers

Magnifying glass

Regular tweezers

Scissors (blunt tip)

Digital thermometer (the dog gets its own, obviously)

Styptic powder

Fresh, unopened, unexpired 3% hydrogen peroxide

Large plastic syringe (10 – 20 ml)

Instant cold pack or two

Survival blanket

Soft muzzle that fits your dog

Hydrocortisone cream 1% (if the dog can have a topical steroid)

Pet safe antiseptic spray (one example is Vetricyn)

Benadryl capsules/tablets (check with vet on whether this is ok for your pet and proper dose)

Emergency phone numbers including your veterinarian's contact info and the number for poison control (either the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, 1-888-426-4435, or the Pet Poison Helpline, 1-855-764-7661) should be included so you have that immediately available if needed. While you think of it, put those numbers in your cell phone now. Include contact information for a televet service such as Vetster. Even better, download the Vetster app which can be used for chat or a telemedicine visit.  This can be immensely helpful when in an unfamiliar area and in need of quick access to a veterinarian. 

Carry documents such as your pet's history, diet and behavior along with a copy of vaccination records in a sealed, waterproof bag. Imagine if you were injured - would someone know how to care for your pet? An auto accident happens on a rainy road – will those papers be found to guide care for your dog and still be dry? Could the dog be boarded at a quality kennel which requires proof of vaccination? Since your pet cannot speak for itself, it has to rely on its caring humans to ensure the necessary information is available in the event you are unable to provide that yourself. 

Feeling prepared? A good kit with unexpired contents will provide you with the items needed when illness or injury arrives. Not feeling prepared? You have the equipment, but perhaps a Pet First Aid course will help with the preparation. The American Red Cross offers Cat and Dog First Aid courses online (https://www.redcross.org). Although very basic at only 35 minutes long, it may be useful to someone with minimal or no preparation in first aid. Another option is offered by the Pet Emergency Academy which provides more comprehensive programs including CPR and First Aid which are approved as continuing education for veterinarians and veterinary professionals (https://www.petemergencyacademy.com/product/canine-and-feline-cpr-and-first-aid-certification-course/). There are numerous books available as well which can be used to provide some advance preparation. Although they can be a useful resource, fumbling through a book during an emergency is not the best option.

Prevention is always the best strategy. When that fails, the worst thing happening may not be the traumatic event itself but facing such an event and not having what you need to provide care for your furry best friend. Whether traveling or at home, a good Pet First Aid Kit and necessary contact information can save precious time and just might save a life. 

 

Pet Poison Awareness Week

Every year the third week of March is designated Pet Poison Awareness Week.  While one week really focuses attention on this threat, we can't forget that this needs to be top of our minds everyday. Ideally we are focused on not just awareness but prevention. A reliable "drop it" command can be, literally, life saving if you catch your dog about to ingest something it shouldn't. But even with the best efforts at prevention, it is important to know what to do if your dog does ingest something toxic.  

One of the most frightening experiences we can have with the animals in our care is to find our companion acting ill and we have no idea what could have happened. Poisoning often needs to be a consideration but can be challenging because the signs vary depending on the poison and how recently it was ingested. In general, you might see any of the following in a case of poisoning:

Common signs of poisoning include 

• GI signs such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stool, excessive salivation or drooling, nausea or loss of appetite, excessive thirst, or really bad breath
• Signs of internal bleeding such as coughing of blood, vomiting blood, pale gums, rapid heart rate, weakness 
• Neurological signs such as lethargy, loss of consciousness or collapse (can also be cardiovascular signs).  Some of these signs also are indicators of potential kidney or liver failure. 

Signs of poisoning often are very subtle at first and then become more obvious. There might be a little tiredness, easy to dismiss as just due to a day of fun activity. Then more lethargy, or maybe a little vomiting, then more vomiting. Or something is "just not right" but it doesn't seem like any big deal, until it gets more "not right." Early intervention is critical if you have any reason to think your dog may have ingested a dangerous substance. 

In 2021, the ASPCA poison control center responded to 401,550 cases of potential animal poisoning. This is nearly double the number of cases in 2018, and the incidence has been increasing steadily each year. Keep in mind those are just the cases for which someone called the ASPCA poison center. Undoubtedly many more were not caught in time or were dealt with in some other way, such as an emergency trip to the vet or a call to another hotline. Fortunately, there is a lot we can do to minimize the risk to our dogs and to help them in the event of suspected poisoning.

Common toxins in the home and yard: The ASPCA lists the following as the top animal toxins for which they typically receive calls:  

• Medications, both over the counter and prescription products. This category includes vitamins and supplements. In some cases, this could be the result of someone trying a human remedy on a dog. In other cases, improperly secured medications were ingested by the dog. All products intended for human consumption, whether prescription or not, need to be stored securely and out of reach of pets, and not used on dogs without the guidance of a veterinarian.
• Foods, chocolate, and artificial sweeteners. This includes a wide variety of items but xylitol, grapes, raisins, onion, and garlic were the top poisons in this group.  If you own any "sugar free" foods or candies, keep them far away from your dog. Many contain the highly toxic ingredient xylitol, which also may be on a food label as "birch sugar." Others may contain sweeteners known to cause diarrhea. Other foods to keep well away from your dog include anything with caffeine or alcohol, macadamia nuts, and chives which are in the onion and garlic family.  Chocolate is extremely toxic with often fatal results, especially for dark or baker's chocolate.  Unfortunately, many dogs are drawn to this deadly item. The ASPCA center receives approximately 60 calls per day about chocolate ingestion.
• Veterinary products. This includes medications administered improperly or poisoning due to labels not being read correctly or not following directions of the prescribing veterinarian.
• Household items. The typical house is loaded with highly toxic items. Look under your kitchen or bathroom sink to see the array of potentially deadly products stored there. Paint and glue, oils, antifreeze, cleaning products, even some health and beauty items such as lotions, soaps, and cosmetics can be toxic to a curious canine. Some essential oils also are highly toxic to dogs. Remember that whatever you use to clean the floor will end up on your dogs paws or fur, providing a mechanism for possible ingestion. 
• Rodenticides and insecticides. The same thing that makes those baits appealing to rodents makes them appealing to our dogs. Keep in mind that a dog consuming a dead mouse is ingesting not just the rodent but whatever that rodent has eaten. If the rodent was killed by rodenticide, your dog has just consumed rodenticide also (this happens regularly to birds of prey such as owls and hawks). Bug sprays, repellents, and ant baits are common insecticides your dog could contact.  Our dogs make contact with the floor constantly, so exposure is not just through obvious traps or baits but may also come from contact with residue that is licked off the paws or fur.
• Plants.  It is possible to love houseplants, gardening, and also dogs. Some dogs like to help with the digging chores. But we do need to choose plants with care.  There are many available that are safe for pets, but some of the most popular ones are highly toxic. A bored dog can easily destroy that beautiful hyacinth and end up with a trip to the ER assuming you catch it in time. Is your dog inclined to chew on a fallen or low hanging branch? Consider your yard plants also as many of those are highly toxic as well.  The ASPCA has a comprehensive guide for house and outdoor plants that is a must read for any dog owner. When I moved into my previous house, there were some beautiful azaleas and rhododendron in the back yard. Not any more. I did find a spot in the front for them, fortunately, outside the fence. Way outside the fence where my dog never goes. The deer are very happy I did that. But that points out just how the definition of "poisonous" varies by species. The deer eat them readily, and other bovidea species such as sheep and goats would do just fine, but my dog could end up in cardiac failure or neurologic crisis if he ate them. My dogs also have had an amazing ability to find poison mushrooms and toads, so I spend a lot of time in the summer doing yard patrol to remove such hazards. 
• Lawn and Garden products. Fertilizers, bone meal, compost, mulch, treated hardwoods, and herbicides all can be highly toxic to your dog. But they told you the lawn was safe for your dog after the weed and feed application dried, you say? Short answer, no it is not. The label saying it is safe after it dries is based on specific testing.  Numerous studies have shown that residue can be transferred from grass to a dog's paws long after a liquid product has dried or a granular product has been watered into the soil or rained on. That residue will be on the grass, then on your dog's paws and fur, and then in your house, and probably licked off the paws and ingested orally.  That amount of exposure usually does not cause immediate poisoning, but long term risks remain. Herbicides and fertilizer products themselves, however, could cause a more rapid poisoning. Some wood mulch, like some lumber prepared for outdoor use, is treated with toxic chemicals and can be poisonous if ingested.  Many dogs are very attracted to Cocoa mulch, sometimes called cocoa bean mulch, which is a byproduct of chocolate production. Cocoa mulch has the same components that make chocolate toxic and can be very dangerous if ingested.      

Usually we think of poisoning as the result of accidental exposure, but it can occur with intentional exposure as well. Some dogs have had toxic reactions to flea and tick products which, even when used as directed on the label, can have serious side effects. Each dog is an individual when it comes to sensitivity and reaction. 

This is by no means a complete list. But I hope that a look at the array of products listed, with special consideration to all the additional hazards that seem to come with lawn and garden season every year, will heighten awareness of the dangers our dogs face on a daily basis. Be mindful of the hazards that exist, know what to do if you find your dog has ingested something it shouldn't, and keep the poison control center number handy just in case. 

More information: One of the best resources for more information: 

https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

Here you can find details about all sorts of toxic substances your dog might encounter as well as a guide for selecting safe plants for your house and yard. The guide covers dogs, cats, and other animals since toxicity is not the same for all species.

What to do if you suspect poisoning: If you suspect poisoning, quick action is critical.  First, if you can, try to identify the potential toxin. If you know what your dog consumed, grab the container to stop further ingestion and so you can tell a poison control expert about the product. Next, call a pet specific poison control helpline. There are several, and most do charge for the service. The ASPCA Poison Control Center is probably the most well known (888-426-4435). AKC Reunite microchips are associated with a free poison control helpline but the service must be activated in advance through the AKC reunite website.  Know where your nearest 24 hour veterinary emergency center is also. While you are thinking of it, put this number and the number of your Vet ER in your phone. Think of it as insurance, something you really need to have but hope you'll never use. Do not try to treat the poisoning until you receive professional advice about the product ingested. If you are headed to the ER with your dog, call the Poison Control Center on the way as the ER vets usually want that guidance before treating. You will be given a case number for the vet to use to get assistance with treatment.

Depending on the poison, it may be appropriate to induce vomiting, but vomiting can cause additional harm in some cases. Always get the advice of a poison control specialist first. Keep a fresh bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide available, along with a measuring spoon and syringe or measuring dropper, in the event you are directed to use this to induce vomiting. Keep it sealed, and replace it before the expiration date. Fortunately, hydrogen peroxide is inexpensive, but it is worth a fortune if you have an emergency and need to use it to induce vomiting.

Hopefully you will never need it, but here's a video on how to induce vomiting using hydrogen peroxide. There is some good information here about when not to induce vomiting, also.  Be sure to contact a vet or poison helpline first.

How to induce vomiting in a dog (and when not to)


Stay safe out there!