Travel Safety: Packing a Pet First Aid Kit

Summer is here! Time to head to fun destinations along with your best canine buddy.  After all, your dog is family, so why get left out of the fun times together? Like family, packing for any kind of trip should consider their needs and safety and good preparation in the event of an illness or injury. 

Recently I facilitated a discussion among a large group of travelers about specific safety issues related to travel with pets and how to be prepared for when things go wrong.  Although that discussion covered several categories of concerns, the most energetic exchange was on the topic of First Aid and dealing with emergencies. Many of those in attendance were very mindful about their pet's comfort and enjoyment while traveling but had given little thought to how to handle an emergency or even a minor injury or illness.  

If you travel with an animal companion, a Pet First Aid Kit can be one of the most important things you pack, providing peace of mind as well as the resources needed if something goes wrong. Of course, having one for humans is a great idea, too, and many items can meet the needs of animals and humans.  However you prepare for travel, keep your pet in mind when packing to ensure you have on hand whatever you need to manage an illness or injury that might arise while you are away from home. 

First aid kits designed for pets are available for purchase. In my experience, the quality of the contents in many prepared kits is poor and items may be old or even expired. A better option is to create your own and fill it with the essentials that you know are fresh and good quality. It might cost slightly more to start, but you will have control over the contents as well as a supply of materials to replenish whatever is used. This also gives you the option to customize the kit to meet the specific needs presented by your pet and your travel plans. Since many items in a First Aid kit can be used for humans and pets, creating your own kit can save space by including all the essential items with pet-specific contents in a separate pocket or side of the same container. There are not many things that are for the pet alone and keeping track of two kits may be cumbersome as well as taking up more space. Empty packs in orange or red emblazoned with familiar First Aid lettering and logos are easy to find and will be easy to locate in your luggage or vehicle (or even at home in the hall closet). You may have an old sewing or tool case you can repurpose. There are lots of options to fit what you want to carry and the space you have available. Customize the container to suit your travel plans and lifestyle. Kayaking or boating with your dog? Consider a brightly colored dry bag that you can take along on the water. Whatever you choose as a pack, be sure to label it well and keep it in a designated place so you can access it quickly when needed. 

When preparing a kit, think beyond what you are capable of using. You might feel very confident at splinter removal but shudder at the thought of dealing with anything bigger. In an emergency, you may have a tele-vet visit and be given instructions for managing a situation. A proper kit will ensure you have the equipment you need close at hand so you can follow the veterinarian's instructions to care for your companion. 

Here are the basics to put in your Pet First Aid Kit:

Gloves (nitrile or vinyl, not powdered)

Sterile saline solution- available in small bottles

Gauze pads - sterile 2x2 and 4x4 size

Rolled gauze 

Adhesive tape

Adhesive wrap (sometimes called Vet Wrap or self-adherent wrap)

Cotton tipped swabs

Tick removal device such as tick spoon or tick tweezers

Magnifying glass

Regular tweezers

Scissors (blunt tip)

Digital thermometer (the dog gets its own, obviously)

Styptic powder

Fresh, unopened, unexpired 3% hydrogen peroxide

Large plastic syringe (10 – 20 ml)

Instant cold pack or two

Survival blanket

Soft muzzle that fits your dog

Hydrocortisone cream 1% (if the dog can have a topical steroid)

Pet safe antiseptic spray (one example is Vetricyn)

Benadryl capsules/tablets (check with vet on whether this is ok for your pet and proper dose)

Emergency phone numbers including your veterinarian's contact info and the number for poison control (either the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center, 1-888-426-4435, or the Pet Poison Helpline, 1-855-764-7661) should be included so you have that immediately available if needed. While you think of it, put those numbers in your cell phone now. Include contact information for a televet service such as Vetster. Even better, download the Vetster app which can be used for chat or a telemedicine visit.  This can be immensely helpful when in an unfamiliar area and in need of quick access to a veterinarian. 

Carry documents such as your pet's history, diet and behavior along with a copy of vaccination records in a sealed, waterproof bag. Imagine if you were injured - would someone know how to care for your pet? An auto accident happens on a rainy road – will those papers be found to guide care for your dog and still be dry? Could the dog be boarded at a quality kennel which requires proof of vaccination? Since your pet cannot speak for itself, it has to rely on its caring humans to ensure the necessary information is available in the event you are unable to provide that yourself. 

Feeling prepared? A good kit with unexpired contents will provide you with the items needed when illness or injury arrives. Not feeling prepared? You have the equipment, but perhaps a Pet First Aid course will help with the preparation. The American Red Cross offers Cat and Dog First Aid courses online (https://www.redcross.org). Although very basic at only 35 minutes long, it may be useful to someone with minimal or no preparation in first aid. Another option is offered by the Pet Emergency Academy which provides more comprehensive programs including CPR and First Aid which are approved as continuing education for veterinarians and veterinary professionals (https://www.petemergencyacademy.com/product/canine-and-feline-cpr-and-first-aid-certification-course/). There are numerous books available as well which can be used to provide some advance preparation. Although they can be a useful resource, fumbling through a book during an emergency is not the best option.

Prevention is always the best strategy. When that fails, the worst thing happening may not be the traumatic event itself but facing such an event and not having what you need to provide care for your furry best friend. Whether traveling or at home, a good Pet First Aid Kit and necessary contact information can save precious time and just might save a life. 

 

Pet Poison Awareness Week

Every year the third week of March is designated Pet Poison Awareness Week.  While one week really focuses attention on this threat, we can't forget that this needs to be top of our minds everyday. Ideally we are focused on not just awareness but prevention. A reliable "drop it" command can be, literally, life saving if you catch your dog about to ingest something it shouldn't. But even with the best efforts at prevention, it is important to know what to do if your dog does ingest something toxic.  

One of the most frightening experiences we can have with the animals in our care is to find our companion acting ill and we have no idea what could have happened. Poisoning often needs to be a consideration but can be challenging because the signs vary depending on the poison and how recently it was ingested. In general, you might see any of the following in a case of poisoning:

Common signs of poisoning include 

• GI signs such as vomiting, diarrhea, black or tarry stool, excessive salivation or drooling, nausea or loss of appetite, excessive thirst, or really bad breath
• Signs of internal bleeding such as coughing of blood, vomiting blood, pale gums, rapid heart rate, weakness 
• Neurological signs such as lethargy, loss of consciousness or collapse (can also be cardiovascular signs).  Some of these signs also are indicators of potential kidney or liver failure. 

Signs of poisoning often are very subtle at first and then become more obvious. There might be a little tiredness, easy to dismiss as just due to a day of fun activity. Then more lethargy, or maybe a little vomiting, then more vomiting. Or something is "just not right" but it doesn't seem like any big deal, until it gets more "not right." Early intervention is critical if you have any reason to think your dog may have ingested a dangerous substance. 

In 2021, the ASPCA poison control center responded to 401,550 cases of potential animal poisoning. This is nearly double the number of cases in 2018, and the incidence has been increasing steadily each year. Keep in mind those are just the cases for which someone called the ASPCA poison center. Undoubtedly many more were not caught in time or were dealt with in some other way, such as an emergency trip to the vet or a call to another hotline. Fortunately, there is a lot we can do to minimize the risk to our dogs and to help them in the event of suspected poisoning.

Common toxins in the home and yard: The ASPCA lists the following as the top animal toxins for which they typically receive calls:  

• Medications, both over the counter and prescription products. This category includes vitamins and supplements. In some cases, this could be the result of someone trying a human remedy on a dog. In other cases, improperly secured medications were ingested by the dog. All products intended for human consumption, whether prescription or not, need to be stored securely and out of reach of pets, and not used on dogs without the guidance of a veterinarian.
• Foods, chocolate, and artificial sweeteners. This includes a wide variety of items but xylitol, grapes, raisins, onion, and garlic were the top poisons in this group.  If you own any "sugar free" foods or candies, keep them far away from your dog. Many contain the highly toxic ingredient xylitol, which also may be on a food label as "birch sugar." Others may contain sweeteners known to cause diarrhea. Other foods to keep well away from your dog include anything with caffeine or alcohol, macadamia nuts, and chives which are in the onion and garlic family.  Chocolate is extremely toxic with often fatal results, especially for dark or baker's chocolate.  Unfortunately, many dogs are drawn to this deadly item. The ASPCA center receives approximately 60 calls per day about chocolate ingestion.
• Veterinary products. This includes medications administered improperly or poisoning due to labels not being read correctly or not following directions of the prescribing veterinarian.
• Household items. The typical house is loaded with highly toxic items. Look under your kitchen or bathroom sink to see the array of potentially deadly products stored there. Paint and glue, oils, antifreeze, cleaning products, even some health and beauty items such as lotions, soaps, and cosmetics can be toxic to a curious canine. Some essential oils also are highly toxic to dogs. Remember that whatever you use to clean the floor will end up on your dogs paws or fur, providing a mechanism for possible ingestion. 
• Rodenticides and insecticides. The same thing that makes those baits appealing to rodents makes them appealing to our dogs. Keep in mind that a dog consuming a dead mouse is ingesting not just the rodent but whatever that rodent has eaten. If the rodent was killed by rodenticide, your dog has just consumed rodenticide also (this happens regularly to birds of prey such as owls and hawks). Bug sprays, repellents, and ant baits are common insecticides your dog could contact.  Our dogs make contact with the floor constantly, so exposure is not just through obvious traps or baits but may also come from contact with residue that is licked off the paws or fur.
• Plants.  It is possible to love houseplants, gardening, and also dogs. Some dogs like to help with the digging chores. But we do need to choose plants with care.  There are many available that are safe for pets, but some of the most popular ones are highly toxic. A bored dog can easily destroy that beautiful hyacinth and end up with a trip to the ER assuming you catch it in time. Is your dog inclined to chew on a fallen or low hanging branch? Consider your yard plants also as many of those are highly toxic as well.  The ASPCA has a comprehensive guide for house and outdoor plants that is a must read for any dog owner. When I moved into my previous house, there were some beautiful azaleas and rhododendron in the back yard. Not any more. I did find a spot in the front for them, fortunately, outside the fence. Way outside the fence where my dog never goes. The deer are very happy I did that. But that points out just how the definition of "poisonous" varies by species. The deer eat them readily, and other bovidea species such as sheep and goats would do just fine, but my dog could end up in cardiac failure or neurologic crisis if he ate them. My dogs also have had an amazing ability to find poison mushrooms and toads, so I spend a lot of time in the summer doing yard patrol to remove such hazards. 
• Lawn and Garden products. Fertilizers, bone meal, compost, mulch, treated hardwoods, and herbicides all can be highly toxic to your dog. But they told you the lawn was safe for your dog after the weed and feed application dried, you say? Short answer, no it is not. The label saying it is safe after it dries is based on specific testing.  Numerous studies have shown that residue can be transferred from grass to a dog's paws long after a liquid product has dried or a granular product has been watered into the soil or rained on. That residue will be on the grass, then on your dog's paws and fur, and then in your house, and probably licked off the paws and ingested orally.  That amount of exposure usually does not cause immediate poisoning, but long term risks remain. Herbicides and fertilizer products themselves, however, could cause a more rapid poisoning. Some wood mulch, like some lumber prepared for outdoor use, is treated with toxic chemicals and can be poisonous if ingested.  Many dogs are very attracted to Cocoa mulch, sometimes called cocoa bean mulch, which is a byproduct of chocolate production. Cocoa mulch has the same components that make chocolate toxic and can be very dangerous if ingested.      

Usually we think of poisoning as the result of accidental exposure, but it can occur with intentional exposure as well. Some dogs have had toxic reactions to flea and tick products which, even when used as directed on the label, can have serious side effects. Each dog is an individual when it comes to sensitivity and reaction. 

This is by no means a complete list. But I hope that a look at the array of products listed, with special consideration to all the additional hazards that seem to come with lawn and garden season every year, will heighten awareness of the dangers our dogs face on a daily basis. Be mindful of the hazards that exist, know what to do if you find your dog has ingested something it shouldn't, and keep the poison control center number handy just in case. 

More information: One of the best resources for more information: 

https://www.aspca.org/pet-care/animal-poison-control

Here you can find details about all sorts of toxic substances your dog might encounter as well as a guide for selecting safe plants for your house and yard. The guide covers dogs, cats, and other animals since toxicity is not the same for all species.

What to do if you suspect poisoning: If you suspect poisoning, quick action is critical.  First, if you can, try to identify the potential toxin. If you know what your dog consumed, grab the container to stop further ingestion and so you can tell a poison control expert about the product. Next, call a pet specific poison control helpline. There are several, and most do charge for the service. The ASPCA Poison Control Center is probably the most well known (888-426-4435). AKC Reunite microchips are associated with a free poison control helpline but the service must be activated in advance through the AKC reunite website.  Know where your nearest 24 hour veterinary emergency center is also. While you are thinking of it, put this number and the number of your Vet ER in your phone. Think of it as insurance, something you really need to have but hope you'll never use. Do not try to treat the poisoning until you receive professional advice about the product ingested. If you are headed to the ER with your dog, call the Poison Control Center on the way as the ER vets usually want that guidance before treating. You will be given a case number for the vet to use to get assistance with treatment.

Depending on the poison, it may be appropriate to induce vomiting, but vomiting can cause additional harm in some cases. Always get the advice of a poison control specialist first. Keep a fresh bottle of 3% hydrogen peroxide available, along with a measuring spoon and syringe or measuring dropper, in the event you are directed to use this to induce vomiting. Keep it sealed, and replace it before the expiration date. Fortunately, hydrogen peroxide is inexpensive, but it is worth a fortune if you have an emergency and need to use it to induce vomiting.

Hopefully you will never need it, but here's a video on how to induce vomiting using hydrogen peroxide. There is some good information here about when not to induce vomiting, also.  Be sure to contact a vet or poison helpline first.

How to induce vomiting in a dog (and when not to)


Stay safe out there!

Updates on Current Respiratory Disease Concerns

I am monitoring a number of veterinary medical and news sources for any changes in information regarding the current respiratory disease that is in the news. On 11/30, I watched a webinar presented by two highly regarded infectious disease veterinary specialists. Here is a recap of that and what seems to be the current status of understanding regarding the recent round of respiratory problems.  These are individuals who experience a daily deluge of questions and are in the thick of the situation, so to speak, so have a good handle on the bigger picture with this round of Canine Infectious Respiratory Disease Complex (CIRDC).

1. Data: There are many, many questions about what is going on at this time. Meaningful data are essentially absent as there is not a useful, comprehensive database for disease tracking of conditions like this. One source of information is insurance claims data indicating how many claims have been submitted for certain conditions. People with dogs with respiratory illnesses are encouraged to have samples submitted so additional testing can be done to help answer the many questions around this condition.

2. Organism: There has been some interesting DNA sequencing from ill dogs showing organisms similar to mycobacterium, a well known genus of a number of bacterial diseases including pneumonia, and some sequencing that looks like a relatively new viral organism. But neither is definitively linked to current respiratory disease. Work is ongoing to identify possible causative organisms which will help a lot with devising effective treatment plans. 

3. Outcomes: There is a higher incidence of fatalities, but that could be due to more cases. More sick dogs naturally means more fatalities. Without good data, it is not clear if healthy dogs are succumbing or only high risk dogs. There are some anecdotal reports on the web and in the general news media of healthy dogs becoming seriously ill, but again not enough data to make meaningful connections. Cornell University confirms that this particular outbreak is associated with a longer course of illness and more severe outcomes for some dogs and does not respond to the usual treatment for other CIRDC illnesses. Many dogs do recover without problem, though it seems to take a bit longer in this current situation.  It is not known just what leads to different outcomes in different cases. Add this to the list of questions at present. 

4. Incidence: Claims data from Trupanion does show an increase in claims for respiratory conditions. Without a sound tracking system, claims data can be a somewhat useful indicator of cases. There are a lot of limitations to that, but there are limitations with all tracking systems due to reporting mechanisms. Claims are up as much as 70% in some areas. As of the end of October, Trupanion shows a 5.41% increase in the number of claims in Virginia.  Some of this may be due to higher awareness and more people seeking care for symptomatic dogs more quickly than they might have in the past. Another unknown. Regardless, 70% is a sizeable increase, so there is something going on. 

5. Vaccination status: This could be a factor. It is possible that people are more selective about vaccinations, perhaps foregoing some vaccinations altogether, or focusing only on the core vaccines. That would leave many dogs without Bordetella or parainfluenza vaccination, possibly opening a window for more infection and greater spread. This was one of many "hypotheses" presented by these specialists. Again, we don't know.

6. What to do: In spite of all the unknowns, they advised the standard caution for respiratory diseases, which are -- Keep vaccinations up to date, particularly Bordetella and parainfluenza. Influenza vaccine may be important as well depending on local data. That vaccine is not always available. Avoid contact with dogs of unknown health and vaccination status. Keep symptomatic dogs away from other dogs including in the same household. Good hygiene/sanitation around the house. They emphasized there is no need for panic, but also a need to be wise.  

More specific guidelines have been developed for dog-related businesses such as grooming shops, day care, and boarding facilities, etc. So while the "don't panic" message is clear from many sources, there is good reason to be diligent and cautious. 

I will continue to monitor credible sources of information and will update this blog entry when there is new information to share. Feel free to bookmark this page and check periodically for updates.

It's Always Respiratory Disease Season

Those of us on the human end of the leash are well aware of the variety of contagious respiratory viruses that seem to be ready to pounce on us as we innocently go about our daily lives. Unfortunately, our dogs are subject to their own array of respiratory illnesses. While many respiratory conditions might be considered seasonal or isolated to specific circumstances, it is now wise to be on the lookout and in protective mode throughout the year. Recent outbreaks of canine influenza across the United States serve as a good reminder of the need to raise our caution levels a bit more.  

Most dog owners are familiar with “kennel cough.” There are a number of different organisms that can cause a cough and respiratory condition including an array of bacteria and viruses. Because of the complexity of these infections this condition sometimes is referred to as Canine Infectious Respiratory Disease Complex (CIRDC).  One of the more common causative agents is Bordetella bronchiseptica and there is a specific vaccine available for that particular organism. Because other organisms can be responsible, the Bordetella vaccine does not offer complete protection, although it does offer a considerable decrease in the likelihood of infection with this agent. Other vaccinations are available for additional protection, particularly parainfluenza and adenovirus.  Distemper also has a respiratory component and is one of the recommended core vaccines but is significantly distinct from what we usually think of as “kennel cough.” 

In the last year or so, outbreaks of canine influenza have led to serious illnesses and the closure of a number of shelters and other facilities for dogs in order to control the spread of this dangerous disease.  Several of these have been in the mid-Atlantic area including D.C., Virginia, and North Carolina. Canine influenza is viral in origin with two specific subtypes of the Canine Influenza virus being responsible for outbreaks in the US so far.  Canine influenza gained considerable attention in 2004 when a number of racing greyhounds were affected. The causative agent for that outbreak was identified as Canine H3N8 influenza virus which is thought to have originated in horses. In 2015 another subtype (H3N2) was found in association with some severe cases during an outbreak in Chicago.  The H3N2 strain also has been found in cats who were presumed to have been infected by transmission from dogs. 

Illnesses associated with CIRDC are highly contagious. Similar to how respiratory disease spread among humans, dogs can spread infection before there are obvious signs of illness. This makes it much more difficult to control and, for us trying to keep our dogs safe, also to avoid exposure. In most cases an infected dog will show signs of illness, particularly an obvious cough. In addition to the cough, other signs that are easy to observe in other animals are noisy or labored breathing and nasal or eye discharge. Infection is spread through the close contact including sharing toys or water bowls, close play, or any close contact that enables a dog to inhale or ingest droplets from the cough or sneeze or saliva of an infected dog. A dog who is showing any signs of respiratory disease should be kept apart from other dogs. For the most part, we humans are safe from these particular pathogens. Only one of the causative organisms, Bordetella, is known to spread to humans but that is very rare and more of a concern for people with compromised immune status.

A hallmark sign of CIRDC is the sudden onset of coughing. It is common for the cough to have a loud honking sound, although this is not essential for diagnosis. Nasal and eye discharge may be present as well. The cough and other symptoms tend to appear suddenly, often within 2-3 days of exposure. Kennel cough can be self-limiting provided the lungs are not involved; similar to our cold viruses, the dog might recover on its own within about 10 days or so.  Canine influenza has the potential to be more serious with dogs in poor health otherwise or those very young or very senior being at greater risk. Since the owner cannot tell what organism has infected the dog or if the lungs are involved, it is best to have a veterinary examination to determine an appropriate plan for each dog.  The veterinarian will be interested not only in the examination of the dog but the dog's recent activities which gives a clue to possible exposure.

Any upper respiratory condition (the pathway that carries air prior to reaching the actual lungs) can progress to a more severe state if the lungs become involved (pneumonia). As with most illnesses, this is a greater risk for debilitated animals. The dog may seem distressed and uncomfortable from coughing and some symptomatic relief can ease the process for the dog and concerned owner as well.  Typically a cough suppressant is prescribed which can help the dog be more comfortable. Occasionally antibiotics are prescribed if there is suspected or bacterial infection or concern or developing a secondary infection beyond the initial cause. Antibiotics are not effective against viruses and should be used judiciously. In addition to these measures, supportive care can help the dog be more comfortable and make good progress through the disease. Supportive care includes ensuring adequate rest and maintaining good nutrition and drinking plenty of water.

CIRDC, including kennel cough and influenza, are ongoing concerns for our dogs. The dedicated caretaker or pet parent should be aware of the widespread nature of these diseases and the potential for outbreaks and take steps to protect dogs from becoming ill.  An important starting point is to ensure the dog is up to date with core vaccines (or titers) which offer some protection against several of the causative agents. Discuss with your veterinarian your dog’s lifestyle, including potential for exposure and risks associated with respiratory illness, to determine if any additional vaccinations are appropriate.  Stay alert to any news about outbreaks in your area or locations where you may travel with your dog. Minimize exposure to other dogs during times of high disease activity. This is especially relevant for dogs of unknown history such as at a public dog park. It may be safer for your dog to visit a dog play group or day care where someone supervising the dogs is likely to notice a cough or other signs of illness. Check what vaccinations are required for a dog to attend that facility. Consider your own dog’s health and risk profile to determine best ways for exercise and socialization. Of course, a healthy dog is better able to recover from any illness, so good nutrition, weight management, and exercise are beneficial for any dog.  If your dog does develop a cough, contact your veterinarian for an appointment. Be sure to tell the office personnel that your dog is coughing.  They will have specific directions for how you can bring your dog for examination while minimizing exposing other animals to a respiratory illness. Keeping your dog fit and healthy and taking just a few precautions can help you and your dog enjoy activities without interruption from a respiratory infection. 

 

What If There Were No Veterinarians?

At SEVA GRREAT, we take the health and well-being of our dogs very seriously, and our relationships with our veterinary partners is a crucial part of our work. We are incredibly fortunate to have access to amazing expertise, coupled with boundless compassion in our veterinarians and in all the members of the veterinary teams with whom we work. This skill and talent ranges from the front desk staff all the way to the veterinary techs, assistants, and kennel attendants. We could not be more grateful for what they do for our dogs and for the humans who care about them.

My title for this entry may seem a bit apocalyptic. But in just the last few weeks, I have read or personally experienced multiple public announcements or other communication from veterinary practices about the extreme stress they are experiencing and pleas for people to be understanding and respectful. This is showing up in the veterinary literature I follow as well, and it makes me wonder if my title really is that far-fetched. We are all experiencing longer delays for appointments, reduced access to urgent care, and much busier veterinary settings overall.  Emergency rooms are turning away cases that might have been seen just a few years ago. Veterinary hospitals and emergency facilities are having to make some difficult decisions to prioritize care to make sure those in greatest need are seen quickly. That means some others will have to wait longer than what has been the case previously.

No doubt some of the challenges are due to the changes that practices had to make to keep open and to ensure the safety of all the people and animals they encounter. Maintaining the high standard of care that our veterinarians provide is taking a little longer these days, and the demand for care has skyrocketed. As the stress and demands on these professionals have increased, some practices are making changes just to maintain the ability of the staff to keep functioning at such a high level.  Some clinics have reduced hours or have a time of shutdown during the day to enable everyone at the clinic to catch up on work. Some have days during which they close completely. Several of the emergency clinics we rely on have reduced hours or had complete shutdowns for a brief time, reducing access to care and obviously shifting the load to other facilities that are already operating at capacity.  Staff turnover has been high in a field that already had challenges hiring well prepared personnel, and it is not uncommon at some clinics to encounter many new personnel on the administrative side and often with the animal care side as well.  Add to the challenges the context of longstanding and under-recognized comparatively high rate of suicide among veterinarians.  (See link to Not One More Vet at the end of this entry.) I am hearing repeatedly, from a number of sources, that the stress and emotional demand on veterinary staff that has always been there is getting much worse.

What makes me most heartsick about this scenario, however, is the veterinary staff who report being routinely subjected to rude, hostile, demeaning, and sometimes threatening behavior by the people with whom they interact. Perhaps it is only a small percentage of people who behave that way. But it cuts deeply, and it leaves a lasting impression. As more than one clinic staff has reported, it may be just a few, but those are the ones you remember until you just don’t want to do it any longer. 

Big deal. We’re all stressed, you might think. We’re all struggling so what is the problem? Veterinarians surely are used to the stress and demands of the work. Many come to their positions through a long history of animal care, often starting as veterinary assistants in a practice. (One of the articles linked at the end of this post does an excellent job capturing some of the common themes in the life of a veterinarian.) But they are not used to the level of hostility and rude behavior they now encounter on such a frequent basis. No one should have to become used to that.  I have heard stories of people being threatened, arguments over costs and a client being willing to pay only a portion because that’s “all the service is worth.” There are stories of name calling and insults I won’t print here. It has gotten so bad that some have had to shut down practices for a time or, at minimum, adjust work hours in order to take care of themselves.  Research consistently has shown that when people are stressed and overloaded, performance suffers and mistakes can be made. Add hostility and name calling to the regular stress of the work and who can blame them for some of the changes they are instituting to protect themselves and the quality of the care they provide. Thank goodness it is likely only a few people who behave this way, but even that is too many.

But that can leave us feeling frustrated that we do not have the access to which we are accustomed, and it is frightening to think about what you would do if there were a true emergency and your nearest animal hospital is closed for a week because they had to restructure to keep working in this challenging environment. Even dealing with doggie diarrhea for an extra few days while you wait for an appointment can be distressing for you and your dog. So what are we supposed to do?

We can do a lot! We are facing a compelling, perhaps necessary, occasion to rethink our relationships and our expectations of our vets and also to improve our own ability to manage the health of our pets. While we might resent how things are, I prefer to see it as an opportunity for transformation that can improve the care of our dogs and our roles as their human caregivers. I asked a number of veterinary personnel for their suggestions given how things are these days and want to share those here, along with some other ideas that I think constitute best practice if you have an animal in your care.

1.  Number one, they told me: Be nice. This was the priority I heard from the veterinary staff with whom I spoke.  Your veterinary staff are doing everything they can, they really do care deeply about your animal, they are experiencing unprecedented demand, and they are working hard to provide the best care possible for everyone who needs them. You’ve probably heard the saying “If you can be anything, be kind.” If you’re a country music fan, feel free to substitute “always be humble and kind.” Either will work, and will be a welcomed interaction with your veterinary professionals. It doesn’t cost anything, it is sure to help, and there is no down side. In the world of medicine, it doesn’t get any better than that. If you are always nice, you say, then that’s terrific! Maybe do a little extra because I am hearing that there are plenty of people who aren’t being so respectful and kind.

2.  Adjust expectations.  It takes longer to get an appointment or a question answered or a refill. It just does. That isn’t such a big deal if we plan ahead. You know your dog needs a medication. Don’t wait till the last minute for a refill. Anticipate there may be shortages in some areas so prepare for that as well. Get extra food or other essentials if your dog has specific needs. Be aware also that veterinary medicine is using remote or telemedicine approaches just as human medicine is. Most state laws require that veterinarians examine an animal in person in order to write prescriptions. However, a telemedicine visit can be very helpful in narrowing down what is going on and how urgent the situation is and how to handle it until you can see your own vet. Our expectations need to adjust to incorporate some unique ways of getting care just as we are doing with our own medical care. 

3. Keep a focus on prevention and being proactive. Some of the main reasons dogs need ER visits stem from things that are easy to prevent. Your dog eats everything? Then make sure  there isn’t anything in reach that is harmful. Take 60 seconds outside every morning to pull up those mushrooms and scout the yard for other hazards. You can save yourself, and your dog, a serious and expensive health problem. Consider play dates with dogs you know and owners you trust rather than the dog park.  Choose appropriate toys and chews; the harder and more long lasting the chew, the greater the potential for a broken tooth. That is one painful and expensive outcome for you and your dog. Keep on schedule with regular exams at the vet. By all means, keep up the heartworm preventives and get refills well ahead of when you need them. Do everything you can for the health of your dog (hopefully this isn’t a change for anyone). Be proactive so problems are detected early and there is more time available to make an appointment. If your dog has a history of ear infections, allergies, or hot spots, to name a few common examples, check regularly so you catch a recurrence early. Talk with the vet about what you can do to minimize recurrence or at the first signs of trouble. Work with the vet to get to the cause of the problem so you may not even have to worry about recurrence so much! This can take some trial and error, but a dog with intractable ear infections or frequent bouts of diarrhea that finally are resolved after a thorough test of different diets is well worth the effort (every golden in my life would agree).

4. Along with the above, it is helpful to learn all you can about your dog. Get your info from good sources.  The American Veterinary Medical Association has a good page with resources for owners, linked below. Look for professional organizations or veterinary schools, veterinary offices, or the ASPCA as other useful sources. Learn what is normal for your dog and what might be an early sign of trouble. A daily lump, bump, ear, eye, teeth, and skin check takes less than two minutes depending on how thorough you are and how often you pause to throw in a few loving glances and “What a good boy!” praise. Not wanting to weaken my reputation as a “poop expert,” I firmly believe that every dog owner should see, fairly close up, at least one poop each day. That way you know that the dog pooped, whether there was any difficulty pooping, and whether it looked normal for your dog or not. Checking on urination is good, too. You might not see the output, but you will know the dog was able to go without difficulty and how often. Looking at one poop a day is a small sacrifice to make to avoid a much worse case of diarrhea and will buy you some time until your vet can see your dog if a visit even becomes necessary. 

5. Know how to handle the unexpected. Keep an emergency kit for your dog including hydrogen peroxide if directed to use it for accidental ingestion (check with animal poison control before using it, though, as it could be harmful if used incorrectly). While we’re on the subject, did you know the American Red Cross offers Pet First Aid Courses? They actually are quite good and cover Heimlich maneuvers and CPR for animals, along with basic first aid.  Your dog means the world to you and you would do anything at all to make sure it is well cared for? Well, there’s something you can do. The class currently is offered online and costs $25. If you feel helpless in case of injury, shock, bleeding, etc., completing such a class can be very empowering. Be aware that emergency facilities may only be able to see cases with true emergencies, the situations that threaten life, such as problems with breathing, bleeding, toxic exposure, foreign body ingestion, GI obstruction or bloat, heatstroke, and snakebite. Know where your local facilities are, know where there are urgent care options, call before going. If you know what to do in the interim, it just might save your dog’s life.  Can’t stand the thought of having to do some emergency care for your dog? Well, there’s that prevention thing described above.

6. Plan for the expenses.  This can help with your own stress around the care of your dog. It costs a lot to own a dog and provide it with proper food and medical care. Skipping routine care to save money may lead to bigger problems down the road, especially as the dog ages. I can’t think of a single situation in terms of human or animal health that is not improved by catching it early. One veterinary professional strongly suggested that people get insurance for their animals. There are numerous options available now and some workplaces even include a pet insurance option as a benefit, recognizing how important our animals are to our lives.   Those of us who know and love golden retrievers realize the particular challenges that come with that breed and the various scenarios we may encounter with them as they age. We hope many of those won’t come true, but need to be prepared for the expenses nonetheless.  The value of what we receive with stellar veterinary care and the advanced diagnostics and treatments available for our animals cannot be beat.

         Veterinary practices are experiencing tremendous stress and high demand at present. Some of the changes we are seeing may be around for a long time. But we have a wonderful opportunity to change our vision of the care of our animals. We must become better informed, more proactive, and more involved as we develop a quality relationship with our veterinary teams. Plan ahead, adjust expectations, and develop your own knowledge and commitment to your dog’s health.  Not only will this enhance the health and well-being of your dog, but it will make the best use of the professionals available. Follow the directions your veterinarian provides. Don’t skimp on all those “good boy (or girl)” interludes with your dog while doing those lump and bump checks. I know our veterinary professionals appreciate the same expressions of kindness and gratitude as well.   I don't want to think about what life would be like without them.

 

References

Alarming suicide rates reflective of stresses felt by veterinarians.  https://www.wisfarmer.com/story/news/2021/05/26/alarming-suicide-rates-reflective-stresses-felt-veterinarians/7361193002/

Not One More Vet.  http://nomv.org

American Red Cross, Cat and Dog First Aid training.    https://www.redcross.org/take-a-class/first-aid/cat-dog-first-aid

American Veterinary Medical Association, resources for pet owners: https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/pet-owners

American Veterinary Medical Association.  Veterinary telehealth: The basics.  https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/practice-management/telehealth-telemedicine-veterinary-practice/veterinary-telehealth-basics

Telemedicine and how it works (VCA handout). https://vcahospitals.com/know-your-pet/telemedicine-and-how-it-works

 

 

Don't Shave That Golden!

The temperatures are soaring, and we humans are running for pools, iced drinks, or whatever else brings us relief from the heat. Surely your fluffball golden must be miserable under all that fur! Time for the “summer cut” and let’s get rid of that extra hair so the poor thing can cool off, right? 

WRONG!! No, never, don’t even think about it, and no way. Big no-no as a matter of routine to shave your dog for summer. You mean leave all that fur on? Absolutely! 

We often refer to the dog’s fur as a “coat,” but that contributes to a misunderstanding of how the dog’s fur really works. Of course wearing a coat in summer the poor thing must be dreadfully warm! So let’s dispense with the word coat for this discussion. Instead, let’s think of the fur in terms of what it does, and that involves its functions for insulation and protection.  As you know with a house,  insulation is important to keep temperatures stable. You set a desired temperature on your thermostat, and the heat and air conditioning systems work to create and maintain that temperature. The insulation helps to separate the inside of your house from the outside so it is easier to get the temperature to stay where you set the thermostat.  Take away the insulation, and your mechanical systems are going to have a heck of a time keeping your house at the temperature you desire. The inside will always want to match the outside if there is a poor barrier between the two. 

The insulation function of a dog’s fur works in the same way.  Dogs have a core body temperature that they must maintain for the organs to function well. Generally this is in the vicinity of 100 to 102 degrees or so, give or take. The fur is what protects them from external stimuli that can cause that temperature to be harder to maintain. Without the fur as insulation, the heat gets in more easily and the body has to work that much harder to keep things stable.

Imagine shaving your head and being outside in the summer. Would it be cooler without that hair? Quite the contrary. You not only will feel the sun’s rays more intensely but you will be more subject to injury. OK, so you’re not shaving the dog down to the skin, so that isn’t a fair comparison, you might say.  The physics are still the same. The sun and the heat can more easily affect the dog because the fur is not there as insulation to protect the dog from the external environment. Even if the temperature outside is lower than the dog’s body temperature, the sun and all the other environmental characteristics are now acting more directly on the dog because there isn’t that important layer of fur to insulate the skin. Dogs can get sunburned, and you may recall a time when you were outside in 90 degree weather, feeling the sun on your skin and thinking it felt a lot warmer than 90 degrees! Add to that experience the heat of pavement or a patio which are well over the ambient air temperature, and things can become dangerous quickly without some insulation or protection. A  temperature of 90 degrees is barely suitable for a warm bath. But the sun hitting your skin with a 90 degree air temperature, or maybe more if you are near reflective or heat-absorbing surfaces? You will feel that! So will your dog, and it can be dangerous, especially for a dog without it’s normal protective layer of fur.     

Dogs like our goldens are designed well for maintaining a healthy body temperature. As double-coated animals, they lose their undercoat as the seasons change to warmer months. This loss of undercoat adjusts the insulation for them automatically. In the winter, they grow that back to provide more protection against the cold. You may have noticed how it can be snowing or sleeting like crazy and in spite of that 100 degree body temperature, the snow does not melt when it lands on your dog’s fur. That fur is doing a great job keeping that body heat regulated.  Mess with their fur by shaving them and you have disrupted that crucial thermoregulatory mechanism, which is a fancy way of saying the dog’s ability to maintain the temperature essential for life. Thermoregulation. It comes built in to the dog and includes their fur as a crucial component. So do not shave your dog.

Fur also serves another purpose, and that is protection from physical elements. Fur provides an additional layer of protection against injury to the skin such as might occur from a good roll in the grass. The topcoat, which is what you see when you first look at your dog, also helps to repel dirt and debris and sheds water to some extent. Check that out the next time your dog is out in the rain for a short time. The top layer of fur will be wet, but the skin can still be fairly dry (depending on how long they are out and how hard it is raining. Some of my goldens didn’t know, or want, to come in from the rain so your mileage may vary). 

Good care for a golden includes recognition that both the fur and the skin are important to your dog’s health. There is a need to be vigilant year round about good skin and fur care. Summer provides its own reasons and challenges in that regard. You and your dog may be outside more, playing in the grass, perhaps swimming or whatever summer fun you have in store together. Attention to cleanliness to remove contaminants (like all that wonderful pollen we have in Virginia) is important to keep the fur and skin healthy. Regular brushing and removal of mats will increase the effectiveness of the fur and the comfort of your dog. Keep the skin dry to help fight off hot spots. While tending to the fur, it is a great time to check for parasites like ticks and fleas; dangerous debris such as foxtails; and also lumps, bumps, or injuries to the skin. One of the best things you can do for your dog is catch a skin problem or a lump or growth early. To help your dog through the hot summer months, provide plenty of shade and water and monitor their activity and their behavior. Goldens do not always know when to quit when they are having fun. 

Help your dog keep that system of skin and fur working well through good grooming and examinations to catch problems early. Shaving and removing that fur just because it seems like a good idea in the summer heat does not help your dog. Good grooming and assessment will. Besides, you’ll have some nice bonding time as you groom your dog, and your dog will be gorgeous with a gleaming and healthy thermoregulatory system.   

   

Fireworks, thunder, and other scary noises

I am sure many of you are looking forward to celebrating the upcoming holiday, even though it may be different than in other years. But for all the opportunities that holidays provide, whatever the circumstances, for many dog owners the 4th of July is one to be feared. Of all the challenges we face as dog parents, the anxiety, fear, and sometimes outright panic and hysteria that can appear in our dogs as a result of loud noises and storms has got to be one of the most difficult. Our dogs truly suffer at times like this, and we suffer along with them. I will never forget my severely thunderphobic dog who literally climbed the walls trying to get away from whatever she was experiencing, standing on the back of the sofa, reaching high and clawing at the walls, anything to get away. It was obvious she suffered at times like that, and with each storm it just got worse.  Fortunately she was an older dog when it got to the point of being unbearable for her, and cardiac and other problems led her across the rainbow bridge before she had to face another storm season. I mourned the loss of that dog, but admit I felt some relief for her that she would never experience another storm again. I assured her there were no thunderstorms over the bridge, just sunshine and rainbows.

That experience taught me a lot, mostly that I never, ever want to see a dog go through that, and my heart goes out to pet parents who struggle with this in their pups. I have vowed to always make storms and loud noises fun, playtime, with special treats to counter-condition against an upswell of anxiety. When we get dogs who have not yet learned that this stuff can be really scary, it is much easier to reinforce for them that storms are nothing to worry about. We have to do that with ourselves, too, because we know they interpret our reactions and will learn to be anxious if we are anxious. So making storms nothing to fear on the human side is just as important, even if the fear is because of our concern for our dogs and not for our own well-being during the storm.

I've gotten a few questions about this in the last couple of days and shared my favorite tips and first steps to help people deal with this dreaded situation. I came across a new blog post recently, written by animal behaviorist Dr. Karolina Westlund, that offers a comprehensive review of many options. Her post includes several things not generally found in the information readily available to help deal with noises. She also includes references to research where relevant. Rather than repeat all the good tips, I'll provide a link at the end of this post. Her blog entry is fairly long, but that is because she explains the mechanisms in a thorough way and also provides a variety of options. There is no one-stop, works for everyone, approach to this. Trying some things, being consistent, and observing how your dog responds are key to figuring out what to do for your dog. Your dog also can change and what worked before may not be enough or they may have become accustomed to that and need something different. I know you will find some useful information here. 

Note that noise situations are different and may evoke a different response. Low rumbles may be perceived differently by your dog than loud bangs or rhythmic noise. The unpredictability of some sounds make them worse for some dogs. It isn't always just the noise that is a problem. Thunderstorm reactions have been hypothesized to be associated with a buildup of static electricity in the air, not just the noise. Dogs often will go to a bathroom where it is thought that the plumbing helps to dissipate that electricity. Since the advent of PVC pipe, that is less effective, but in older homes with copper or metal plumbing, it actually can provide some relief from the static for your dog. If you live in such a house, you may have noticed your dog likes to hang out in the bathroom. (It isn't always that they just have to follow us there, but there's that aspect, too.) It also is a relatively confined space and may be in an interior area away from outside walls and windows. If you have such a room, that may be a good "safe space" for you and your dog to enjoy the storm/noise together. Yes, I actually wrote "enjoy." I haven't had any luck teaching any of my dogs to play cribbage yet, but I've spent more hours than I can count sharing some food treat puzzle fun with them over the years to get through storms and other scary situations.

The foundation for management of any difficult situation is to keep the dog safe and make sure all humans remain calm. Building on that foundation, following are my main go-to actions in case you don't want to read the entire linked blog post. But I recommend that you do because it is full of wonderful information and you can't have too many options for dealing with this challenge.  

1. Humans absolutely must be calm. Think of storms, noise, as absolutely no big deal, just part of a typical day. Your dog will pick up very easily if you are on edge or anxious or if things are different, and can easily associate that change with the noise. Sometimes I think this is the hardest part.

2.  Above all else, keep the dog safe, monitor door openings and closings, have a talk with everyone else in the household so that the dog is safe. Maybe one person is designated as the primary caregiver to take the dog out to maintain consistency. Storms and fireworks are high risk times for a dog to get away and,  in their fearful state, it will be very difficult to find them and get them safely home. Even in fenced yards, I have taken my dog out on leash to keep them close and to know I had control and they were secure, just in case. They seemed to feel more secure keeping me close by, also. I think one of them thought she had me on leash for her control.

3. Help your dog associate the noise with something pleasant - a favorite toy, special treats, videos on tv (my dog loves Animal Planet). Distraction can be helpful in addition to the positive association. It's storming? Cool! Where's my ball? Your dog may not get to that point, especially if you did not raise them from puppyhood, but it can help with the counter-conditioning even in older dogs if they are not so traumatized that they can't get involved. Desensitization and counter-conditioning are the mainstay of dealing with phobias and other anxiety-producing situations. It's never too late to start. Most dogs can be helped with appropriate behavioral interventions.

4. Rescue Remedy is a wonderful product for all sorts of stress/anxiety situations. Rescue Remedy is one of the flower essence formulas created by Dr. Edward Bach (favored pronounciation now is "batch"). It has been in use in people since the early 1900s and has received widespread accolades among holistically oriented practitioners and rescues (the latter often dealing with high stress in dogs). It can be found in most pet supply stores. There is a form labeled specifically for pets that is best to use for our dogs.  Prior to that formula, the people version was used for pets, and that is available in many nutrition and vitamin shops. The difference between the two formulas is that the pet version is alcohol free, so it is a much better choice for your pet to get the form specific for them. I am extremely conservative about anything new I try, so I always recommend observing closely to see how your dog responds so you have that information to guide future interventions.

5. Create a space where you dog can feel safer and cannot harm themselves. A crate with a blanket over it, a table made into a fort/tent (remember those as a child?), their dog bed surrounded by soft stuffies, pillows, blankets, clothing from the owner so they get your smell, etc. The goal is not to confine the dog which can make things worse, but to give them a quiet and safe space where they can go in an effort to isolate themselves from what is bothering them. This is not a good time to put the dog in his or her crate, which can lead not only to increased noise anxiety but fear of the crate, too. The exception would be if the dog likes the crate and chooses that space. But leave the door open, and make sure it is the dog's choice to go there. Bathrooms can be good if located interior of the home, not just for thunderstorms but because an interior bath may provide some sound-deadening effect and a smaller (thus, to a dog, more manageable) space. Help create the safe space, but let it be your dog's choice where to go, and always make sure they can leave that space if they need to move.

6.  Thunder shirts or anxiety wraps work well for some dogs. Explained in the blog linked.

7.  Adopt a whole household approach so that everyone is consistent in their interactions. If one person is anxious and you're trying really hard to interest the dog in some play, the dog is going to respond to the anxiety.

You will find many other tips in the blog linked below. I hope some of this information is helpful and I wish you all a safe and stress-free summer and holiday. Note that on the blog post you will find a link to download the post as an e-publication for future reference.

Dr. Westlund's blog post on thunder, fireworks, loud noises